In this DIY I plan to get you guys shining with HIDs. You’ll greatly increase nighttime visibility, and up your car’s “sex-appeal”.  Follow the jump for details.

Required Tools/Items:

1. HID kit with lights filaments and ballasts
2. 10mm socket / ratchet (to work with battery terminals)
3. Wire cutters (if you’re skilled scissors)
4. Electrical tape (and preferably a soldering iron)
5. Single Pull / Double Throw Relay (SPDT…you can also you a SPST)
   http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062477
6. 10ft of black/red 16gauge wire (pwr/gnd extension)
7. 5 ft of remote turn on wire (make this a specific color, such as blue or yellow)
8. 8 ft of wire ¼ inch wire loom
9. (8) zip ties
10. Double sided 3M tape (don’t skimp out with cheap stuff)
11. Fuse holder w/ 10 amp fuse (don’t mind my 10 gauge fuse holder, that’s all that was readily available, you can use something with 16 gauge if you like)
12. Crimp connector ends (slide/quick connectors and ring terminals)
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103502
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104012\
13. Brackets to mount your HID ballasts, cause ill be honest they’re just kinda hanging out in my car right now. If you guys have trouble with finding an appropriate mounting location leave a comment and ill try to make a
    how-to on mounting the ballasts.

EXPECT RESULTS

DRLs are no more! This is almost just as good as the HID part for me. Your headlights will turn on as soon as you put the light switch in the parking lamp position. I’ve been using this setup for 6 months, no problems. On a regular basis I only turn my lights on to the parking lamp position. Although I’m quite sure the low beam circuit is mute once it sees no load, I just stick to the switch position I need just in case. Installation will yield one major benefit over the regulation circuit approach (that allows you to leverage the standard halogen harnesses on your HID ballast with out DRL interference). Since your low beam harnesses are free, you can easily plug in your halogen lights as a back up if one of your HIDs goes out. To use your fogs, you will need to have your light switch in (fully turned) low beam on position. With that said, if the aforementioned results work for you, lets get right to it.

1. Unpack Hid kit layout all contents and wires
   
2. Most HID kits come with nice cases for light filaments. So go to your car and swap your halogens with the HID filaments, putting your old headlights in the protective casing. Always good to have those halogens as a back up
3. The low beam harness connectors are no longer used so they need to zip tied / taped / hidden.
4. Let’s start by marking one of the ballasts Drivers and the other Passenger. It will make it easier to communicate in this document. Please see the adjacent picture for corresponding names of other components (it is the nomenclature that will be used throughout the rest of this DIY)
5. Splice the ends of the passenger side ballast power wire and solder them to the corresponding red/black 16 gauge you have (all 10 ft of it, you can cut it short once you run it to the power source)
6. Figure out where you plan to secure your passenger side ballast. Ensure that you plan to mount it somewhere without direct exposure to water or moving parts (alternator, radiator fan etc, wouldn’t want it to come loose and hit any of those items in the off chance its not perfectly mounted or you get in an accident) Wherever you decide to mount, mark that area.
7. Now take your newly extended power wire from step 4 and roughly measure how much wire you need to get to the fuse box/battery area of the engine compartment. I ran my wire around the front of the vehicle. Above the radiator, just behind the grille and back out next to the drivers side headlamp. To properly route the wires I had to pull up the plastic front radiator fascia to reach around things. Once you figured out where to route your cable, cut it conservatively, and save excess wire for step 9 (remember, always better to have too much than too little)
8. Take your wire loom and wrap the passenger side extended power wire. Tape the ends of the loom tightly with electrical tape to keep it from sliding around. Whatever remaining wire loom you have you can put around the driver side ballast power wire (which is probably about 1.5 ft long).
9. Take out your remote turn-on wire (preferably of blue color to match the factory wiring) and carefully measure a length that will reach from the back of the driver side parking lamp (that’s in the very front right corner of the engine bay when you open the hood) to the battery area (where your relay will be mounted)
10. The spare red/black 16 gauge wire will be used to deliver power to the relay. Take your inline fuse holder and splice it into the middle of the power wire that will run to the battery (there is no involvement with the ground, black colored, wire in this step). Leave the fuse out of the fuse holder until installation is complete.
11. Attach the appropriate size ring terminals to one end of the red/black wire from the previous step so that the wire can be easily attached to the battery. (this wire from here on out will be referred to as the battery wire). NOW YOU’RE READY TO INSTALL WIRING
    
12. Remove the driver’s side parking lamp by reaching by the side of the headlamp and twisting the long casing attached to the parking lamp. When you pull it out, you’ll see wires going into a 3 inch plastic casing that then hold the light element. I recommend unclipping this portion so you can make your remote connection inside of it, thus helping to protect your connection from weather.The blue wire is the power cable you will splice your remote turn on into. Make sure that you run your new wire into the opening at the bottom of the plastic piece before you splice it so you can easily connect it back to the parking lamp element for a clean install.
13. If you haven’t already, route your passenger and drivers side ballast power cables to the same area just to the right of the battery.
14. Mount your ballasts in the appropriate locations you have chosen and connect your power cables to them
15. Connect the ballast out put to the HID light filaments
16. Take your battery wire, connect the ground and the power to the factory terminals. (mind you no power will come out the other end since you don’t have the fuse in yet) Now that the wires are all set and ready for install, let’s prepare the relay. This is the most important part of the setup

    

17. Take your SPDT power relay (or SPST if you prefer) and make sure your quick disconnect crimp ends fit properly.

18. Take the battery wire (+) lead and attach a quick disconnect
19. Combine the (-) leads and (+) leads from each of the ballast power wires. Also,  about 2 inchs down from the wire combinations, splice the ground lead from the  battery wire into the passenger side ballast power wires (-) lead. Crimp quick disconnects onto the end of the combined wires. (see picture)
    

20. Crimp quick connect on to the end of your remote turn on wire
    

21. Attach double sided tape of appropriate side to the back side of your relay.
    

22. Now lets connect it all together. Look at the casing or diagram for your relay to
    follow the connections listed below. Simply slide on your wires that have the
    quick disconnects to the corresponding inputs seen below

    Contact 85 => (-) lead from the wire you combined in step 18

    Contact 86 => remote turn-on wire from the parking lamp

    Contact 30/51 => (+) lead from the wire you combined in step 18

    Contact 87 => (+) lead from the battery wire

23. Double check all of the connections and wires
24. Attach your relay to the vehicle with your double sided tape. I attached mine to the side of the fuse box.
    
25. Insert your 15 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
26. Give it a test run. Turn your light switch to the parking lamp position and your HIDs should light up.

Coated in a green paint job (same color as a porsche GT3 RS) they have a new  body kit, AME tracer 18×9 wheels, and toyo tires of course.  I believe they’ve added a few bolt ons as well, which brings it to an estimated 350hp.

Now i wont cast my vote , or state my opinion on this yet, because i havent seen it in real life.  Once I get a chance to see it in the flesh, ill definitly let you guys know if this is a legit concept or not.  Off the top of my head? I think it looks kinda silly, but ill wait to see the real thing before I post with any negative commentary.

Just looking at the available equipment worldwide, and taking into consideration their mission with the package, I’d expect the following components :

-Rain sensing windshield wipers
-Full leather seats [w/heaters]
-Cup holder / cubby hole covers
-Auto folding mirrors
-Spoiler delete w/lip spoiler
-New black housing tail lamps

How much will all this cost?  I’m not exactly sure, but I’d definitly expect to see this in the low $40k range.  I do think this package brings this vehicle to a competitive level with vehicle’s like the E46 bimmer, Audi S4, and BMW 135i.

[Source Mitsubishi/WORKS Lancer Project]

When you turn on your car (and drop the ebrake), and the low beam lights are in the circuit, everything is fine.  The light system sends a less than sufficient voltage to the low beams in order to create the DRL light effect.  When the lights are turned on, the DRL circuit increase voltage and thus you have headlamps.  I think the DRL circuit needs the load of the low beams to properly adjust voltage.  If it sees a different load then it is liable to apply the wrong voltage, which then leads to a flickering light.  Somehow the DRL system must be by-passed.  Only then can an HID kit be properly installed.

Thus far I have run a couple tests:

DIsconnect low beams -> Turn on car -> hook HID kit to low beam harness -> turn on lights
In this scenario, HIDs will work…for one round .  This is because the DRL circuit disables itself when you start the car with no low beams in connected.  HOWEVER, once you turn the lights off, the DRL circuit detects a load again.  If you go to turn on the lights a second time, they will not work, the DRL circuit is interfering once again.

DIsconnect a low beam -> connect a HID ballast to low beam harness -> turn on lights
In this scenario, the one HID will work normally.  Funny thing.  As long as one low beam is in the circuit, everything works fine.  This leads me to the conclusion that I need to create some sort of circuit that simulates the load of a standard 9006 bulb. You only need this on one headlamp harness for it to be effective.

I have seen different recommendations on forums regarding this matter, and i even tried one of the circuits in a how-to section, but it didnt work for me.   I plan to solve this problem and present a real circuit diagram with a video for you guys to follow, something I do not see anywhere else online.

So after I finished the installation of the exhaust it was time to take the car for a run.  I have video of this, but keep in mind that the audio i got doesn’t exactly replicate the great sound that this exhaust puts out.  At low revs it does have a slight 4 cylinder rasp, but everything above 2800rpms is damn near exotic, backfires n’ all.  But i’ve already said to much.  i’ll save the rest of my observations for the formal product review. Here is the running footage of the WORKS exhaust in action.

The APE factor rating can be found below.  The axle-back is not exactly a “must have part” like the ECU, when you stand back and look at the stats, but if you’re looking to maximize your output it definitely gives you a decent power gain with out much hassle.  I will be pulling 0-60  and 60-80 times for benchmarks.  If you’d like any other tests run, let me know.  [CLICK IMAGE FOR LARGER PICTURE]

The base Lancer Sportback models will come with the choice of a 1.5L or 1.8L four-cylinder or 2.0L turbodiesel.  The Sportback Ralliart, that serves up high performance with a side of practicality, will be powered by the 2.0L MIVEC turbocharged four-cylinder, making 237 horsepower and 253 lb-ft of torque.  This vehicle will come standard with the Twin-Clutch SST transmission, an Active Center Differential and all the go-fast goodies found on the 4-door ralliart.  

Now, all the diesel and sub-2.0 liter talk is clearly for Europe only.  Here in the US, we wil have to wait till the end of the year to get behind the wheel of one of these bad boys, and our version will certainly not have a diesel option.   Expect the usual 2.0L/2.4L Mivec combination to fall into place.  Also, for all you penny pinchers out there, I wouldnt expect a DE sportback either.  Most of Youth consumers in the US have acquired ES or GTS models with a slew of options.  Seeing that sportback is to be a Youthful utility vehicle, at the most expect ES / GTS/ Ralliart models.

My first time around i decided to pull out a couple bolts and pieces to the air box, all of which was uncalled for.  This is a 1-minute install, which only involves some gloves and two hands.  So this final video is much more informative and to the point.  Also, I finally got a new program to compile videos with, so this should be alot better than the first one, and they’ll only get better from here .

FULL REVIEW COMING NEXT WEEK, complete with dyno runs / APE factor chart